Friday, April 3, 2015

The Source

--Updated periodically--

Alden of New England 

Allen Edmonds

Alvin-Dennis

Andover Shop

Aran Sweater Market

Bills Khakis 

Brooks Brothers

Cable Car Clothiers

Cape Madras

Country Club Prep

Dale of Norway

Dogwood Black

Duck Head

Gant

High Cotton 

J. Press

Jos. A. Bank

Just Madras

Kiel James Patrick

L.L. Bean

Lacoste

Lands' End

Leather Man Ltd.

Mercer & Sons

Murray's Toggery Shop

O'Connell's

Orvis

Ralph Lauren

Smathers & Branson

Southern Proper

Southern Tide

Tommy Hilfiger

Vineyard Vines

York River Traders

The Preppy Watch

  The most preppy watch you could wear -by far- is the classic Timex.

Many would point to the Timex Weekender as the one to get. While I will not dispute the prep cred of that watch, I feel that the Timex Croco Strap Watch is the more trad of the two (pictured below).


This watch is superior to the Weekender due to the fact that it features Roman numerals. If you look closely at this old poster (shown below) you will see that Roman numerals on a watch are cited as being preppy.


Once you receive your Timex Croco Strap Watch simply remove the leather strap and then replace the spring bars without a strap. Then purchase a few 20mm grosgrain watch bands and slip them through the spring bars (demonstrated below).


There are hundreds of striped watch bands to choose from in every color combination imaginable. Many traditional clothing outfitters sell them and eBay is a good source for them as well.


These Timex watches are very inexpensive ($35-$50) and thus understated, adding to their prep credentials.

And finally, here are a couple of photographs for those preps that prefer the Timex Weekender (shown with grosgrain striped bands, of course).


Preppy Brands

  I present to you this in-the-know list of brands that preppies wear; and a list of brands that preppies would never wear.

This is a list intended for men. Most of these brands carry women's clothing too, but you won't find women's-only preppy brands, like Lilly Pulitzer, listed.

It's worth remembering that all of these companies are in business to turn a profit and therefore sell trendy clothes along side their more traditional offerings. These "fashion" pieces are easy to avoid once you understand just what traditional clothing is.

True traditional clothing means that a five-year-old boy, his 40-year-old father and 75-year-old grandfather all wear the same things. 

The following list is by no means exhaustive. But it should give you a solid idea of what stores to shop at for traditional clothing.



Brooks Brothers

Founded in the year 1818, Brooks Brothers is the oldest clothing manufacturer located inside the United States. They invented "traditional clothing". They are the most genuinely trad brand.

In fact, it's somewhat surprising that we don't all say "the brooks look", as opposed to "the preppy look", when describing traditional clothing.

 Some Brooks Brothers historical highlights:

* In 1896, John E. Brooks, the grandson of Henry Sands Brooks, applied buttons to collars of dress shirts, thus creating the worlds first button-down collars.

* They created the first pink dress shirt for men in the 1890s (still the best shade of pink available anywhere; women didn't get a pink dress shirt until the 1930s).

* The Shetland sweater, introduced in 1904.

* Polo coat about 1910.

* Madras, introduced from India via Brooks Brothers to the public in 1920.

* Argyles: in 1949, Brooks Brothers became the first American retailer to manufacture argyle socks for men.

* The first lightweight summer suits made of cotton corduroy and seersucker were introduced by Brooks during the early 1930s.

When it comes to the iconic polo tennis shirts, Brooks was third, after Lacoste (1926) and Fred Perry (1951). They released their first polo in the early 1960's.



Lacoste

Nicknamed "The Crocodile", French tennis legend René Lacoste created the worlds first polo shirt in 1926. Becoming immensely popular in the early 1930s, the polo shirt has endured to become a genuine preppy icon. Any self-respecting prep has numerous Lactose polos in his collection. 



Ralph Lauren

A former employee of Brooks Brothers, American designer Ralph Lauren struck out on his own in the late 1960s and went on to become, perhaps, the worlds best-known brand offering traditional attire.

In the early 1970's Mr. Lauren sewed a little logo of a polo player onto some his women's shirts. This logo was so successful that virtually every clothing maker on the planet tried to emulate his success with their own brand logo, leading to a plethora of unique shirt logos by the 1980s. None of them were successful. That is until 1998, when Vineyard Vines introduced their preppy clothing line featuring a whale logo.

Ralph Lauren carries one of the largest selections of traditional (casual) clothing available.



Vineyard Vines

Founded in 1998 on Martha's Vineyard by brothers Shep and Ian Murray. They started out making ties by funding themselves, charging $40,000 to their credit cards, and have since gone on to become the only clothing company since Ralph Lauren to be fully embraced by real preps.

Vineyard Vines was placed on Inc. magazine's list of the 500 fastest-growing businesses in the U.S. in 2007. That same year their profits neared 40 million.

They sell a great polo, as well as belts, oxford shirts, shorts, and bags.



L.L. Bean

Founded in 1912 by Leon Leonwood Bean, L.L. Bean is "Prep mecca". They are the most genuinely preppy brand.

They started out selling outdoor equipment such as firearms, backpacks, tents, as well as producing a full line of clothing.

Their iconic duck boots (created in 1912 by Mr. Bean himself) are a mandatory item for preps. Other must-have L.L. Bean items are their flannel-lined chinos and their (now-famous) Norwegian sweaters, among other things.

Author Hunter S. Thompson referred to wearing L.L.Bean shorts in a number of his works, most notably during the "Wave Speech" featured in chapter 8 of Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas.

Some preps like to collect their vintage catalogs for nostalgic reasons.

Annual sales for the company tops 1.5 billion a year.



J. Press

Founded in 1902 on Yale University's campus in New Haven, Connecticut.

J. Press carries on a traditional Ivy League style of men's clothing. The company caters most to the old-fashioned preppy subculture that eschews popular culture trends. The company makes an effort not to outsource the production of its clothing to developing countries or to use synthetic materials in its line.

According to The Preppy Handbook, their (former) store, on 44th Street between Fifth and Madison Avenues, was chosen because it was equidistant from the Harvard Club and Yale Club.



Lands' End

Lands' End began as a sailboat equipment company in 1963 in Chicago, Illinois.

The company is named from its sailboat heritage, after Land's End, but the misplaced apostrophe in the company name was a typographical error that they could not afford to change, as promotional materials had already been printed. It remains today.

Sears bought the company in 2002 (for 2 billion), but many preppy staples can still be found among their offerings.


Honorable Mention:


Tommy Hilfiger

 Founded in 1984, the Tommy Hilfiger Corporation went public in 1992 with a full line of traditionally-inspired clothing.

Some will cry foul at my listing Tommy Hilfiger among the poser-prep clothing outfitters. And while I understand that Mr. Hilfiger has stated publicly that he came to regret the hip-hop crowd adopting his clothing in the later half of the 1990s, there is no denying that his company went to great lengths to cash-in on the trend.

Mr. Hilfiger claims to have repented his trendy ways, and has declared that he wants to return to his traditional roots and regain his brands cred with preps - yet, one glance through their catalog tells a different story.

So until they make a full return to authentic preppy clothes they shall remain ingloriously positioned between my list of genuine preppy brands and my list of pseudo-preppy brands (see below).

All that being said, their classic polo is still a viable choice for the trad minded.



Brands to avoid:

Below is my list of brands that many believe are "Prep" --but simply are not. 


J. Crew

The official story is that J.Crew was founded in 1983 by Arthur Cinader in "the hopes of capitalizing on the success of The Official Preppy Handbook" and Ralph Lauren.

This company is, perhaps, the most despised brand among real preps. This distaste may be due to the fact that so many people believe that they are the real deal. Well, they're not.

Avoid. Few brands will make you look more like a try-hard.

About the only item I could tolerate would be their logo-less tennis polo. 


Abercrombie & Fitch

There are many reasons (see below) why you should avoid this brand like a disease. Being perceived as the ultimate prep-poser is perhaps the number one reason for the traditionally-minded man not to wear their trendy clothes.

Founded in 1892, Abercrombie & Fitch was a respectable outfitter of sporting and excursion goods, particularly noted for its expensive shotguns, fishing rods, fishing boats, and tents.

In 1976, Abercrombie & Fitch filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy. Shortly thereafter the name was revived, when in 1978, Oshman's Sporting Goods, a Houston-based chain, bought the defunct firm's name and mailing list for $1.5 million.

The company has been accused of promoting the sexualization of pre-teen girls by marketing thongs to 10-year-olds and padded bikini tops to 7-year-olds.

In 2013, the company came under fire for comments made by the CEO, stating that his brand is only suitable for "the good-looking, cool kids," and that there are people who don't belong in his clothes – namely fat people.

Classy. 


Hollister

 An American "lifestyle" brand by Abercrombie & Fitch. Officially designed to attract consumers aged 14–18. (See above) 


American Eagle Outfitters

Founded in 1977. Officially, the brand targets 15- to 25-year-old males and females.

Some of the brand's best-selling products are low-rise jeans and graphic T-shirts.

Bottom line: they are not prep and I would rather wear a potato sack than don their trendy and cheap clothing. Avoid. 


Aéropostale

 Founded in 1973, they officially target 14-to-21-year-old young men and women.

Another brand that tries to market themselves as a preppy outfitter. And many young people believe that they are.

Well, they're not.


The above list of wanna-be preppy brands to avoid is not exhaustive. But those listed are the main brands incorrectly referred to as "preppy" by the masses of trendy youth today.

Prep Manifestos

  Make room in your home library for these books focusing on the history and culture of the preppy lifestyle.

I may later publish a Part II of this post, as I withheld a number of (lesser) books on the topic. The books listed below vary in quality but together form a solid foundation in collecting literature on the topic.

[The book descriptions are -overall- not my own.]


Take Ivy



















 Described by The New York Times as, “a treasure of fashion insiders,” Take Ivy was originally published in Japan in 1965, setting off an explosion of American-influenced “Ivy Style” fashion among students in the Ginza shopping district of Tokyo. The product of four sartorial style enthusiasts, Take Ivy is a collection of candid photographs shot on the campuses of America’s elite, Ivy League universities. The series focuses on men and their clothes, perfectly encapsulating the unique academic fashion of the era. Whether lounging in the quad, studying in the library, riding bikes, in class, or at the boathouse, the subjects of Take Ivy are impeccably and distinctively dressed in the finest American-made garments of the time.

Take Ivy is now considered a definitive document, and rare original copies are highly sought after by “trad” devotees worldwide. A small-run reprint came out in Japan in 2006 and sold out almost immediately. Now this classic is being republished with an all-new English translation. Ivy style has never been more popular, in Japan or stateside, proving its timeless and transcendent appeal.


The Official Preppy Handbook (1980)


















The Official Preppy Handbook is a tongue-in-cheek reference guide written by Jonathan Roberts, Carol McD. Wallace, Mason Wiley, and edited by Lisa Birnbach.

The amazing thing about this famous book is it's attention to detail, especially it's coverage of the clothing that real preps wear.

It's cultural impact on the decade of the 1980's was profound.

This book is second only to the Holy Bible for preppies. 


Seven Sisters Style: The All-American Preppy Look



















 The first beautifully illustrated volume exclusively dedicated to the female side of preppy style by American college girls. The Seven Sisters-a prestigious group of American colleges, whose members include fashion icons such as Katharine Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy, Ali MacGraw, and Meryl Streep-perfected a flair that spoke to an aspirational lifestyle filled with education, travel, and excitement. Their style, on campus and off, was synonymous with an intelligence and American grace that became a marker of national pride and status all over the world: from jeans and baggy shirts to Bermuda shorts and blazers, soft Shetland sweaters and saddle shoes, not to mention sleek suiting, pearls, elegant suitcases, kidskin gloves, kitten heels, and cashmere. "[The college girl's] contribution to fashion is as American as Coca-Cola, baseball and hitch-hiking," announced Harper's Bazaar in 1935.


Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style



















 The authoritative fashion history of the roots, growth, and offshoots of the quintessentially American preppy style. Preppy offers the first definitive and in-depth volume on preppy fashion, exploring its evolution from its pragmatic origins and presence on elite Eastern campuses in America to its profound influence internationally[....].


The Ivy League























 The Ivy League is so much more than a group of eight universities. Attending one of these prominent schools provides entrée into a world of exclusivity and private clubs a membership that never expires. Through photos and text, The Ivy League admits readers to the world s most revered institutions, portraying the character of each school and what sets it apart, from renowned graduates and dominant political stances to athletic rivalries, architectural styles, popular fashion, and more.


Ivy Style: Radical Conformists



















 Focusing on menswear dating from the early 20th century through today, this elegant book traces the main periods of the look: the interwar years when classic items, such as tweed jackets and polo coats, were appropriated from the English man's wardrobe and redesigned by pioneering American firms such as Brooks Brothers and J. Press for young men at elite East Coast colleges; then from 1945 to the late 1960s, when the staples of Ivy Style—oxford cloth shirts, khaki pants, and penny loafers[....].

This is the book published by the Fashion Institute of Technology after completing their incredible museum exhibit of the Ivy style.


The Ivy Look: Classic American Clothing - An Illustrated Pocket Guide



















 Before the "Preppy Look," there was the "Ivy Look." Stylish and comfortable, the Ivy Look's impact and influence can be seen to this day in the clothes of designers such as Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani, as well as in the more proletarian offerings of L. L. Bean, J. Crew, Dockers, and Banana Republic. From the button-down hip of Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, and Miles Davis to the enduring style of the cast of Mad Men — they all knew the true cool of the Ivy Look.


The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook



















 The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook explains precisely how to decorate your house, how to wear your clothes (and what clothes to wear), how to word your letters and how to educate your children. If you are a Sloane Ranger, you'll recognize the form. Mummie and Daddy will have done a proper job on that years ago. But It Never Hurts To Be Sure.


Hollywood and The Ivy Look


















 This stunning book delivers a pictorial celebration of the look and attitude of 'Ivy.' Between 1955 and 1965 a coterie of discerning Hollywood hipsters appropriated the incomparable Ivy League clothing of America's East Coast elite. These West Coast actors elevated the Ivy Look to the height of cool and defined a quintessentially American male dress code for a new generation of movie audiences. From the button-down hip of Steve McQueen, Paul Newman and Anthony Perkins to the preppy sensibilities of Woody Allen and Dustin Hoffman; the understated but carefully selected components of the Ivy Look didn't shout 'look at me' but instead gave off an image of approachable correctness and laid back confidence. This volume digs deep into the photographic archives to produce the essential reference book for any pilgrim of the Ivy Look, and explains how it earned its place in history as the look of modern America.


Brooks Brothers: Generations of Style




















 In 1818, Henry Sands Brooks founded Brooks Brothers, the first ready-to-wear fashion emporium in America. One hundred eighty-five years and countless fashion innovations later, Brooks Brothers is publishing its first book. Written by John William Cooke and beautifully illustrated with artwork and rare photographs from their archives, this book chronicles the history of Brooks Brothers. Coffee table-size and covered in grey wool pinstripe fabric from Loro Piana.


Lilly: Palm Beach, Tropical Glamour, and the Birth of a Fashion Legend























 Today, Lilly Pulitzer's iconic brand of clean-cut, vibrantly printed clothes called ""Lillys"" can be spotted everywhere. What began decades ago as a status uniform in Palm Beach became a general fashion craze and, later, an American classic. In contrast to the high visibility of her brand, Lilly Pulitzer has largely kept her tumultuous personal story to herself. Bursting forth into glossy fame from a protected low-key world of great wealth and high society, through heartbreaks, treacheries, scandals, and losses, her life, told in detail here for the first time, is every bit as colorful and exciting as her designs.


 Ralph Lauren


















 The landmark volume celebrating the life and work of Ralph Lauren. Unlike many designers, Ralph Lauren is not known for a single signature look, but rather for his sweeping dreams of American living. Over the course of his career, the images of luxury, adventure, and beauty that he created have come to define American style.

In this visually stunning book, Lauren speaks candidly about himself and his art. In part one, we get to know the designer through never-before-seen pictures of him in private life and with his family, living the lives he designs for. In his own words, we hear about his life, work, and inspiration.


Gentleman: A Timeless Guide To Fashion























350 thick, full-color, crisply designed pages.

Part tutorial, part celebratory, part history lesson, Gentleman covers all men's clothing issues, literally from head to toe. From different types of underwear and the joys of custom-made suits to umbrellas and handkerchiefs, the book schools you on all you need to know about becoming a traditionally-dressed man.

Perhaps the ne plus ultra of trad guides, this coffee-table size book is a must own for your library. 


Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion























 Alan Flusser's name is synonymous with taste and style. With his new book, he combines his encyclopedic knowledge of men's clothes with his signature wit and elegance to address the fundamental paradox of modern men's fashion: Why, after men today have spent more money on clothes than in any other period of history, are there fewer well-dressed men than at any time ever before?


Tipsy in Madras: A Complete Guide To 80s Preppy Drinking























 Gin and Tonic anyone?

Remember the days of sipping Cape Codders in Cape Cod? Bloody Marys over brunch in SoHo? And Old Fashioneds at the Harvard Club?

No?

Doesn't matter. The 80s may be over, but the preppy attitude that pervaded the era lives on in classic drinks with a kick. Tipsy in Madras will help readers "prep" their bar, discern the brands to have on hand, mix their drinks, and delve into the timeless lifestyle. Wanna-bes and prepster hold-outs will get insight into preppy drinking fashion, customs, literature, and more-and answers to such essential preppy questions as:

*Do Brahmins drink beer?
*To monogram or not to monogram?
*Where does one find authentic prep school mugs?
*What are the best preppy movies to drink by?


The Preppy Cookbook: Classic Recipes for the Modern Prep



















 Are you planning the menu for your local junior league’s next luncheon? Wondering what cocktail to sip on while spectating at Wimbledon? Searching for the perfect casserole that tastes just the way Mummy used to make it?

With answers to all these questions and more, The Preppy Cookbook will guide you, step by step, in creating a kitchen, and a world, that exemplifies the preppy lifestyle. This beautifully illustrated cookbook from Christine E. Nunn, the owner of Picnic, offers more than 125 perfectly tested recipes.

America's Cult of Preppy People

America's Cult of Preppy People
Glasgow Herald, Tuesday October 6 1981

An old newspaper article from Europe commenting on the "preppy craze" unfolding in the States following the release of The Official Preppy Handbook, published one year before (in October of 1980).

Note the "preppy comic". Fairly humorous.

Also take a look at the smaller article "Classic Lines From Britain". Do I detect a little bit of envy from the U.K. for American sartorial sensibilities? Perhaps not. It is, however, a stretch to claim that preps dress "British". We have indelibly influenced their dress as well (see numerous Brooks Brothers innovations). And besides, Europe is WASP heritage, their very root. These upper-middle class Americans being referred to in this article (and their attire) were European-American's, after all.